”O (living) Christmas Tree:” Important tips for your live Christmas tree!


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Last month we were on the theme of Evergreens. ‘Tis the season, so let’s continue with…

….”O (living) Christmas Tree.” 

The Christmas tree has been with us for many, many years… and continues to evolve and change.

How did it become such a widely recognized symbol? Here’s a brief historical timeline…
-The Egyptians brought green date palm leaves into their homes during the winter solstice.
-The Romans marked winter solstice by decorating their homes with greens.
-The Druids of the ancient British Isles used holly, mistletoe and evergreens as part of their winter solstice festivities.
-In the Middle Ages, Germans and Scandinavians brought evergreen trees into their homes in anticipation of Spring.
-The Christmas tree (as we know it) began with Martin Luther, and by 1920, the custom had become nearly universal.

    So you want a live tree for Christmas…
    Here are some pointers for picking out your tree, caring for it and planting it.

    o   There is no one species of evergreen tree that’s used. On the contrary, it can be a fir, spruce, pine or even a dwarf shrub. Local nurseries will have a variety. Do your research about what grows best in your region and your landscape.

    o   The most important thing to check is that the tree has a large root ball. Sometimes the roots are wrapped in burlap – sometimes the tree is simply in a large plastic pot. The more roots a tree has, the better its chance of survival when planted.
    o   When transporting it from nursery to home, remember that a living tree is considerably heavier than a cut tree.  A 5-feet-tall tree that’s balled and wrapped in burlap can weigh more than 150 pounds!
    o   Pick out and prepare your spot before you get the tree. Since your Christmas tree will be planted outside, give it “elbow room” to grow.  It’s 3 to 5 feet tall now, but years from now, it will be over 80 feet high!
    o   Once you’ve picked the spot, prepare the ground before it freezes.  Dig a hole 3 times the diameter of the root ball, and as deep.  The hole should be square – flat bottom and square sides. Cover the hole with boards and then add a thick layer of mulch. (This keeps the soil from freezing. You’ll also want to store the soil removed from the hole in a place where it won’t freeze.)
    o   When you bring your tree home, spray the foliage with Wilt-Pruf or a similar product to keep the needles from drying out. Make sure the root ball is moist. If it’s dry, soak it in lukewarm water for an hour.
    o   Keep the tree in a protected, shaded area outside until it’s brought inside for decorating. It’s essential that the root ball does not freeze.
    o    Keep your live tree inside for only 5 to 7 days, with the temperature no warmer than 70 degrees. Your tree will need to be watered often and you may opt not to decorate with electric lights as they can dry out the foliage.
    o   When you move the tree outdoors, allow it to acclimate by first putting it in a garage or porch for several days.
    o   To plant the tree in the prepared hole, remove the mulch and boards, remove the burlap, and loosen the roots so they will spread out. Keep the top of the root ball even with the top of the hole as you fill the hole with soil. After filling up the hole, build a shallow trench around the edge of the hole and water the tree with 3 – 5 gallons of water.
    o   Now anchor the tree with 3 pieces of clothesline r
    ope tied to stakes that are put outside the perimeter of the hole. Don’t use wire to stake, and do remove this in the summer.
    o   Re-apply the mulch 3 – 4 inches thick around your tree.  This allows the tree to begin establishing itself despite the season. And you’ll be able to enjoy your tree for many seasons to come.
    “If you would know strength and patience, welcome the company of trees.”    Hal Borland

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